Graduate School

I just wanted to give an update for anyone who was unaware that I have been studying a Master in Political Analysis at the Universidad Complutense de Madrid this year. This in part explains the delay in blog posts as I haven't had as much time to write between teaching and studying. I am completing this degree in Spanish, which has been challenging to say the least. I know it's helped me improve the language and now I know how to say all sorts of interesting political terminology in Spanish (that rarely come to use in any social setting, awesome)!! It's a one year program, so the classes are 3 hours each. Last semester we had one day with two classes back to back. Yes, 6 hours of non-stop class. In a foreign language. I remember the first weeks of class leaving with a slightly dizzy sensation. When my classmates would ask me how I was doing, I could barely form any coherent thought in Spanish or in English. Definitely the hardest class for me was our election statistics class. Not of the mathematical mind, trying to understand how to do election formulas in Spanish was more like listening to a lecture in Chinese. At least that's what it sounded like to me sometimes. But that semester is behind us and now we are into the second half of the program. We will be wrapping up classes in May and I will be working on my thesis this summer to deliver this fall. Until then, I will try to do my best to keep updating the blog and studying to get that higher education :)

Qué blanca eres!

  One thing about living abroad is you never know what humorous (and/or surprising) thing you will hear each day. Sometimes I just don't know how to respond to the things people say to me. After being here a year and a half I still get surprised at the very direct way of speaking that Spaniards have. Americans never actually say what we mean. We word things very indirectly and are always careful not to offend anyone. It's part of our culture. I remember my first few days teaching at the school and everyone was so surprised how fair skinned and blond I was. "Qué blanca eres" they would tell me. "You're so white!" Obviously I stick out, and even back home I never considered myself tan, but what exactly do you say to someone you just met who proceeds to tell you that. I'm not offended, just caught off guard. "Um, gracias??" Maybe they meant it as a compliment, but more likely it was just a statement. Even now, I still get the occasional "blanca" observation from my coworkers- just because I live in sunny Spain did not change my DNA. Crazy, I know.
  Another interesting thing I've noticed is they won't shy away from mentioning your appearance: be it good or bad. If you're having a rough day, well, be careful. A common response might be, "Qué te pasa?" "What happened to you?" It always give me a chuckle because quite often I don't know what happened to me. I thought I was fine. Or they'll ask you if you've got a cold or something, "porque pareces malita". Pause. Then you inform them that you are not sick, but apparently you look it. Awesome. To be fair, the same goes for the days you decide to make yourself look semi- decent while running around all days with kids. "Qué guapa estás!!" At least it goes both ways. Also, luckily for me, I have dozens of fans among the first graders. The girls love my hair and therefore think I'm pretty everyday. Aww.
   Taboo discussion topics.... not so much taboo. Example one: a person's weight. Can you imagine entering your break room and someone telling you in front of the whole staff that you have gained/lost weight? Then without any discomfort at all, you proceed to inform all who will listen what diet you've started/ what bad habits you've fallen into and the exact amount added or lost (in kilos, or in our case, pounds). I have actually heard this several times in our lunchroom (thankfully not directed at me). Sometimes they will use that as an excuse to get you to eat something you have no intention of eating. "Here take one of these mayo, egg and tuna nasty sandwhiches, you're too thin." We have a breakfast break provided at the school with coffee, fruit, packaged pastries, toast, and aforementioned nasty sanwhiches (which people devour). As I cannot wait until 11:30 to eat breakfast, I eat cereal at home and then just have some coffee and fruit at the school breakfast time. So of course I get asked if I'm on a diet. And that I am thinner than last year (um, how closely are you people looking, I don't notice any obvious change...) and that I should eat a nasty sandwhich. Still passing on the sandwhiches though. Well, some days we are lucky and have some baked sweet or pastry. A delicious one is the "Torrija" that is a typical sweet around Easter. It's like bread pudding with lots of sugar and cinnamon. They are always a welcomed sight for me. The second I place one on my plate and a take a bite, someone will graciously remind me not to eat too many because "they will make you fat." To which I think, and not the tuna mayo sandwhiches?? (holding tongue)
   Politics: yes of course we talk about politics in the US, and things can get heated, but I've witnessed some political discussions at a whole new level. People will be shouting at each other, calling someone else's ideas complete stupidity and never mentioning  any pardoning phrase like "I can understand your point, but..." or "maybe you see it this way, but I don't." Nope. Just, you're wrong. That's that. But what occurs next is interesting as well. After berating each other over policies, they move on to some very light conversation like, "I like your new haircut. Where did you get it done?"    ??  I thought some friendships were on the very fringe, but nobody ever seems offended. It's like when I first started working and heard people shouting at each other during lunch. I thought everyone was angry at everyone all the time. (they aren't)
  A common one for expats is: "Wow you have such a strong American/British/whatever accent. How long have you been here??" This one is especially difficult to hear for someone who has spent some significant time abroad and made many efforts to improve the language. It's like making judgments on someone's language knowledge basely only on how they sound (which I suppose is the sad and inconvenient truth). But accents are not picked up immediately. Living 1.5 years in Spain (and the other 24 in the US) will not give you a native speaker's accent. Again in this situation, I have to hold my tongue because I want to blurt out: "Yes I do have an American accent. I'm American!" But I never do.
   Cheers!
 Imagine this, but more mayonnaise


 There are worse ways to die

Las Cruces de Mayo in Andalucía

At the beginning of May, Spain has a “Puente”, meaning bridge where the last or first days of the week are holidays for extended weekend travel. My roommate, Caitlin, our friend, Melissa and I decided to take a spin around the south of Spain in the hopes of finding good weather. Strangely enough, Madrid is still pretty chilly this time of year. Taking advantage of the train system, we mapped out our route through some of the major cities in Andalucía: Cordoba, Sevilla, Granada, and Malaga.  Unknownst to us, this was a very good week to travel in the southern region because of the cultural festival of “Las Cruces de Mayo”. The Red Crosses of May is exactly that; crosses of red flowers set up in the city squares with green and white tents serving beer and other beverages while playing what can only be assumed as traditional flamenco music. So basically, like so many other festivities it is an outdoor drinking party, aka  “Botellón” (but with long historical and cultural significance. I don't want to downplay these events. I just describe what I see...) It all feels very local, and plenty of people were out in Cordoba the first night we arrived, voting as to which cross was the best display (or maybe the best party). We spent the next day seeing the cathedral that was built on top of a Muslim mosque. The Christians built a Catholic cathedral right in the middle of the mosque, which they left standing, creating an interesting mix of cultures and religions inside. The walls are lined with row after row of red and white striped arches that are truly amazing. I will show you the pictures.

The Cordoba Mezquita

The Catholic part of the church inside the mosque

Cruces de Mayo in Cordoba

 Alcázar and Gardens, looks sort of like Eden, right?

From Cordoba, we continued on to Sevilla, the considered capital city of Andalucía. Sevilla has a very unique vibe, and it feels nothing at all like Madrid. The architecture and the vegetation are distinct. In Sevilla we could see the incredible gothic Cathedral (the 3^rd largest church in the world) where Christopher Columbus is buried. We took a paseo by the bullfighting ring that runs along the river, spent the afternoon in the mindblowing royal gardens, and then stumbled upon what we mutually agreed might be the most impressive building in Spain: the Plaza de Espana. To describe this set-up?? Well have you seen the second of the new Star Wars movie? Remember that scene where Natalie Portman and Anakin were battling strange alien creatures in an arena? That arena was filmed at Sevilla’s Plaza de Espana. A semi-circle of connected buildings surrounds a mini-river where people can rent paddle boats to cruise under little bridges. On the buildings are tile murals of every major city in Spain. Definitely a must-see in Spain. One night we went to a flamenco show in some underground theatre. Lots of stomping and wrist-flicking. We’re so cultural.

 

View of the Cathedral from inside the The Giralda, the bell tower where we climbed 34 ramps to the top.

Sevilla's Royal GardensPlaza de España

   Malaga was rainy and mostly a disappointment. Having no beach days, we tried to see what there was so see, which was not much. But hey, I’m always up for checking out new Spanish cities, so no biggie.

Only pics I could find of Malaga...

But the most fun we had this trip was our stay in Granada. Not only did this city surprise me (I’d been twice before), but we met some super fun locals. Granada is intriguing because of its Moorish feel. We stayed near this cool part of town that was full of spice markets and tea shops. Then of course there’s the Alhambra, the massive Islamic fortress and palace. I’m assuming most people are somewhat familiar with this so I won’t go into detail, but see for yourself from the pictures. One memorable night we went to a happening Cruz de Mayo gathering and met some funny characters. Being in Spain long enough, we knew to buy wine and sprite on the way there, to mix our own spritzers at the party. With one cup between us, we were ready. Not long after arriving, 3 university guys approached us in typical fashion; asking us the time or where we were from or something like that. We struck up a conversation with them that lasted several hours wherein they told us the rich history of Granada and taught us how to “properly” flamenco dance (Ha. Ha.) They were quite entertaining and showed us foreigners a good time. Half the night I found myself thinking, “is this really my life right now? How lucky are we to have these kinds of experiences”. And it’s the truth. By being here a year, we get to see the sides of the country most people don’t and that is exactly why I moved abroad in the first place. J

The Alhambra

Making botellón with our new friends at The Cruces de Mayo in Granada.

Semana Santa

Semana Santa

  Around the week before Easter, we had our so “Spring Break”. Actually it is called “Semana Santa” = the Holy Week. Much more appropriate, but I couldn’t shake the Spring Break Americanism in me, so Spring Break it is. Let’s see… most people in the US spend their Spring Break lying on the beach, but I had the grand idea to go to even further north into the freezing European continent to Brussels and Amsterdam. Well I really wanted to see these places and time was running out, therefore we sucked it up and flew north. Besides the fact that I was completely underdressed (what was I thinking not bringing my normal winter coat??), I was really impressed with these cities. We ate chocolate and waffles in Brussels and toured the EU headquarters. We saw the  “Manneken Pis” statue and the “Atomium” futuristic complex. We had no problem walking around the city and plenty of nice strangers helped us get around. Of course, my favorite thing was all the chocolate stores with Easter eggs in so many flavors! We stocked up. We went to a local beer hall to try some of Belgian's well-loved beer, but I’m pretty sure I ended up giving mine away. Still after living in the land of cerveza, I have not grown to love beer! After hitting the highlights, we took the short train ride to Amsterdam.

  Amsterdam was unlike any city I’d been to before. I loved the canals, the bikes, the buildings built along the water. We took plenty of silly pictures in the Vondel Park before renting little bicycles to ride around town. It’s incredible how much faster you can cover a place on a bike! And the whole world uses them there so they have their own lanes and stop lights. We tried some delicious fries with sauces and pancakes at Amsterdam Pancakes! So good. We rode to the Flower Market and entered every cheese shop we found. We proceeded to sample every type on display (which is enough for a light dinner). The restaurants there were really diverse and it was fun to park your bike outside for a while to escape the cold and then speed away home. I was a little sad to leave such a lively place, but really enjoyed my non-traditional Spring Break in Belgium and the Netherlands!

 Easter Chocolate

 The Grand-Place

 Here he is in all his glory

 Even chocolate Manneken Pis

 The modern EU city inside of Brussels

 Atomium

 Last night in Brussels, cheers!

 Vondel Park, Amsterdam

Cheese

 Outdoor market- somehow I didn't see these bejazzled men's jeans making it in the US.... 

 Eating fresh Dutch cookies. Even the maker posed. Nice.

our transportation

How many people can you size into the I amsterdam sign??? 

Lisbon, Portugal

How could I forget about my trip to Lisbon in early March? As I don’t know too many people who have traveled to Portugal, I can vouch that Lisbon is a really interesting city. Something I didn't expect was to find it completely covered in graffiti. Even more surprising- I liked it. It was more like art really, and it gave the city a kind of hip, funky vibe. We did not miss the chance to use it as a photoshop background. From Lisbon, you can also take a train to the nearby city of Sintra to see a colorful castle on top a mountain. Here are the pictures from our trip. If you do ever find yourself in this city, try the macaroons and pastries! 

A good place to get Lost- in the hilltop district of Bairro Alto. Great views!

Lisbon's urban art

Sintra Pena Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site

sweet stop

"The Cobra"

For my next entry, I'd like to tell you a funny story about social interaction we experienced in Spain. My roommate Caitlin tells it better. Enjoy:  
 
Spain, especially Madrid, is famous for its discotecas. Madrid is after all one of the party capitals of the world. The biggest discoteca: Kapital, with 7 floors and each floor plays a different genre of music. If you stay on the first floor you get to experience the “wind guster,” a machine that generates large gusts of wind at the height of the techno beat. You know in the rap videos, where they roll up to the fancy clubs and there are bouncers in black suits with earpieces acting like they’re the secret service while ushering in women in mini skirts and ten-inch heels? I always wondered if those places actually existed; they do, and most of them are in Spain. There are hundreds of them, maybe thousands. After we had visited a few of them, we asked our Spanish roommate what the deal was with the social etiquette in the discotecas; we just didn’t get it. This is the breakdown he gave us:

“Well, it’s all about the cobra.”

Us: “The cobra? What?”

“Yeah, all guys fear the cobra, you know, when a guy goes to kiss a girl and she moves her head back like a cobra while looking at him like, I don’t think so” “You don’t do the cobra? What do you do if I guy tries to kiss you?”

Us: “Oh, well, guys don’t typically try to kiss you if they don’t think you’re interested…” 

 “But if he doesn’t try to kiss you, then how does he know you are or aren’t interested?”

Us: “Well, if you’re talking with him, depending on the conversation he could tell if you are interested.”

Look of confusion…Well, if some guy does try to kiss you and you don’t want to kiss him, what do you do?”

Us: “Well, I guess we would give him the cheek.”

“The cheek?! If you give him the cheek he thinks, alright I got the cheek, I got a chance! No, the girl does the cobra. Then the guy has the option to respond with the bear.”

Us: “The bear?”

“Yeah, the bear, like a bear hug. Then the girl can respond with the kangaroo.” (Demonstrated with both hands and foot pushing away bear hug.)

 This is actually a true story. And we actually could have used these moves out. Now you are prepared for a visit to a discoteca in Madrid. Have fun and be ready! :)

Fútbol Mania

  Spain is home to, well, some of the world’s best soccer teams. You might have heard of our home team, Real Madrid. Crowds flood in from all over the city to the sacred Santiago Bernabeu stadium. This monstrous stadium holds 85,454 of some of the world’s loudest and most faithful futbol followers. Every gameday, the Real fans in my classrooms would sport their Cristiano and Casillas* jerseys. All the Barca (Barcelona) kids would give them a hard time about how they’ve beaten Real multiple times in this year’s  “El Clásico” matchups. -àFor more info about “El Clásico” click here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/El_Cl%C3%A1sico     The students would ask me if I liked Real Madrid or Barca, and when I always responded Real, half the class would cheer and the other gave me dirty looks. Easy way to make enemies in Spain- be a Barca fan in Madrid or vice versa.  So as I am very team spirited, of course I had to check out the action in the Bernabeu. Here are some shots.
     *Cristiano Ronaldo #7, Iker Casillas goalkeeper

                                             Watch this video of Real Madrid almost scoring!